Nomadic Living with the Kazakhs: A Journey into the Altai Mountains of Mongolia
Mongolian Kazakh with Golden Eagle
When I made a plan to set off for Mongolia, people told me I was crazy.
Not only was I traveling to one of the most remote areas of East Asia - a place with no running water or electricity - but because I’m vegan and absolutely hate the cold. A wild, desolate country, Mongolian winters are unforgiving. Temperatures can drop to -40°C. Hearty local cuisine consists of meat in the winter and meat with dairy in the summer. Yet, I longed to come here.
Was it the raw beauty, sublime landscapes, or sense of adventure that called me? Was it seeing the rare, endangered Przewalski (Takhi) horses and wild Bactrian camels? Perhaps it was a combination of all these things.
Monoglian Kazakhs on Horseback
Once I arrived half way across the world, my journey took me to the far eastern border of Mongolia and China. Deep within the Altai Mountains, I met the remaining nomads of the Eurasian Steppe - the Kazakhs.
After spending three weeks with the nomadic people, I found their life to be very hard. It felt as if I had traveled back in time to the era of Genghis Khan. The only reminder of the present (or at least a more modern time) was the occasional sighting of a Russian Furgan van, which was popular in the 1960’s and 1970’s. Despite the hardships, they are one of the happiest, warmhearted, and hardworking people I’ve ever met.
By Western standards, I’m a minimalist, but the nomads take simple living to a whole new level. I found this to be very liberating. I spent my days exploring the vast Altai Mountains and sleeping in a traditional ger on the dirt floor. I wore the same clothes day in and day out. Despite no running water and a shared toilet, which was nothing more than a hole in the ground, I didn’t smell. Maybe because it was so cold?
It was here I experienced true hospitality. Sharing food, tea, and sweets from my personal stash that I brought from home, telling stories, and listening to a father and daughter sing while they played the horsehead fiddle, moved me to tears. At no time was I criticized for being vegan. In fact, many nomads found it to be very good karma and actually respected me for it.
Traditional Mongolian Ger in the Altai Mountains
Living with the nomadic people was an unforgettable experience that I’ll always cherish. The time for self-discovery was ripe and showed me that I am stronger than I gave myself credit for. Regardless how hungry, uncomfortable or exhausted I felt, I never compromised my values. It was here that I realized I’m driven by my positive outlook. Rather than acknowledging the negative even when it was easier, I saw the brighter side of things. Their authentic hospitality made me realize what’s truly important in life - our relationship to nature, each other and ourselves.
It’s these types of travel experiences that crack open our hearts, invite us to ask thought-provoking questions, and express gratitude for the simple things so we return home changed.